A few days ago I was looking through restaurants in Stockholm for a future, imagined trip: for someday, when I finally head there in person. One of my discoveries, now at the top of my must-visit list? Agrikultur, a tiny 24-seat restaurant in a nondescript corner of the city, serving thoughtful small dishes with ingredients from Sweden’s farms, waters, and wilds. I was taken with the floor-to-ceiling tiled walls, rustic stacks of wood, oil lamps on every table, and the up-close-and-personal chefs’ counter. (Plus, Agrikultur has received a coveted star for the last three years in the Michelin Guide.)
When I emailed with Joel Åhlin, one of the chefs/owners, I was surprised to discover that, before Agrikultur opened in 2016, the space had been “a pizzeria and, before that, an adult video shop with an illegal strip club in the basement.” Åhlin and co-owner/chef Filip Fastén’s goal for the new interiors, in tandem with designer Daniel Östman? “To make the guests really feel like they were invited home to me and Filip’s for dinner,” Åhlin says. Mission accomplished. Step inside.
N.B.: Åhlin and Fastén recently opened a little sister restaurant, Bar Agrikultur; equally artful, with half-painted walls.
Photography by Niklas Nyman, courtesy of Agrikultur.
1. Hang a muted wreath.
2. Bring back oil lamps.
3. Embrace floor-to-ceiling tile.
4. Create artful firewood storage.
Note also how essentials are kept at the ready in the small space, like the long-handled pizza peel, held in place by two nails. The taps serve still water, sparkling water, and pilsner; a small rack above keeps a few glasses within easy reach for a pour.